Putting sides and roof together

With the sides up and fastened to the floor, I added the front and rear cross pieces to connect them. After the front and rear cross bracing was installed, I adhered the interior birch paneling to them. In this photo, you can see the cutout for the original (well, original to me, but not original to the trailer) refrigerator venting. Since I need to match the cutout in the original aluminum siding which I am planning to reuse, I figured I would add a nice aluminum compartment door, whether it was functional or not. Since I couldn’t put a new gas operating fridge back in (I couldn’t find one small enough to fit the area safely) I decided on a nice 12volt/120volt unit which doesn’t need exterior venting. Also, on a random note, you can see how nice the use of a Kreg pocket hole screw jig is when building the trailer.


I added the necessary support blanks within the framing for the future solid screw anchoring of  exterior light fixtures and other random vents, etc. These were not part of the original framing. I just thought it would be a good idea.


The roof is also made of 3/4” marine grade plywood. I added two middle ribs down the center that will create a small slope for water run off. When the rigid insulation is added, the roof will be a nice, solid, sloped roof. There was no attempt to slope the roof on the original trailer design. The aluminum roof was simply layer down flat with a small slope only around the vent framing which is 1-1/2” high. I also knew that since I was going to use a single sheet of aluminum roofing in place of the original multiple pieces with seams, that I couldn’t construct the new sloping roof ribs to tall or the sheet aluminum would not conform well without creases over multiple directions. 

Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

A little roof action

Image
These two photos show how whimpy the roof is built for light weight reasons. One would never want to put their full body weight on it, that’s for sure. The upper picture shows the vent cut out. The trailer  came with a basic crank open non powered vent. I would replace it with a powered unit for nice air circulation. Both photos show how the high voltage line was simply just draped over the roof spars and the aluminum roof just set on top of it. I’m derstand it’s hard to rout wire through 3/4” thick material, but man, this just seams like a bad idea for many reasons. I would route the new wire inside the trailer cabinetry via conduit for a much more protected path and easier accessibility.
Read more

Let the real demo begin!

Image
 After ripping out the kitchen counter assembly, I began tearing down sections of walls. It continues to be apparent that the structural integrity of Otis was gone long ago. With the entire passenger side and front dismantled, it was almost time for it all to come crashing down. The previous owner installed laminate flooring. It was pieced in pretty badly.  With all the walls torn down, the floor was next. The white plywood is in the rear where the last owner attempted to replace a rotten section. This photo also shows the cool galvanized fender wells removed. They were in great shape. 
Read more