Exterior plumbing, electrical Inlet

This is where the standard 15 amp Inlet is located. The simplicity of the original single outlet and one light fixture allowed only a 15 amp Inlet, but I will be adding an RV 30 amp Inlet in its place. This will allow me to install a 30 or 40 amp converter/power center. I have grand plans for the new electrical system that include lots of lighting, outlets, and various other goodies. 



This is a close up of the sink drain, vent, and city water connection. I will do what I can to update the plumbing. Because I need to use the existing cutouts, I saw the need to probably add decorative aluminum plates to cover screw holes and then redrill access holes through them. This will become more clear when I talk about it later at that stage. 




Here is a picture of the water tank filler spout. The water system is a gravity feed system. The really cool cast aluminum fill spout is installed a little higher than the top of the tank. I can’t wait to clean it up. The little cover flap and latch were corroded closed and wouldn’t open the way they were. I’ll fix that for sure. This photo was taken after I spent some time cleaning it up. 

Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Putting sides and roof together

Image
With the sides up and fastened to the floor, I added the front and rear cross pieces to connect them. After the front and rear cross bracing was installed, I adhered the interior birch paneling to them. In this photo, you can see the cutout for the original (well, original to me, but not original to the trailer) refrigerator venting. Since I need to match the cutout in the original aluminum siding which I am planning to reuse, I figured I would add a nice aluminum compartment door, whether it was functional or not. Since I couldn’t put a new gas operating fridge back in (I couldn’t find one small enough to fit the area safely) I decided on a nice 12volt/120volt unit which doesn’t need exterior venting. Also, on a random note, you can see how nice the use of a Kreg pocket hole screw jig is when building the trailer. I added the necessary support blanks within the framing for the future solid screw anchoring of  exterior light fixtures and other random vents, etc. These wer...
Read more

Let the real demo begin!

Image
 After ripping out the kitchen counter assembly, I began tearing down sections of walls. It continues to be apparent that the structural integrity of Otis was gone long ago. With the entire passenger side and front dismantled, it was almost time for it all to come crashing down. The previous owner installed laminate flooring. It was pieced in pretty badly.  With all the walls torn down, the floor was next. The white plywood is in the rear where the last owner attempted to replace a rotten section. This photo also shows the cool galvanized fender wells removed. They were in great shape. 
Read more

A little roof action

Image
These two photos show how whimpy the roof is built for light weight reasons. One would never want to put their full body weight on it, that’s for sure. The upper picture shows the vent cut out. The trailer  came with a basic crank open non powered vent. I would replace it with a powered unit for nice air circulation. Both photos show how the high voltage line was simply just draped over the roof spars and the aluminum roof just set on top of it. I’m derstand it’s hard to rout wire through 3/4” thick material, but man, this just seams like a bad idea for many reasons. I would route the new wire inside the trailer cabinetry via conduit for a much more protected path and easier accessibility.
Read more